Mile-High Maendels: April 2011

When looking for a Central American country to visit on a budget, may I suggest passing over more popular destinations such as Costa Rica and Panama for the oft overlooked yet visually stunning country of Guatemala. I was there in 2008 for one month, during which I spent a few days at Lake Atitlan, considered by many to be the most beautiful lake in the world. I returned, this time with the wife, for the better part of the past week during her spring break. It was a trip taken to celebrate a successful Match, secure in the knowledge that the next five years will leave us little time for travel.

After spending the night sleeping on the threadbare carpet of Miami International Airport with an annoying voice loudly jumping out of the speakers to proclaim the time every fifteen minutes, we arrived, after two layovers, in Guatemala City. A short taxi ride to the bus terminal and we jumped on a camioneta (aka "chicken bus") for the 4 hour ride up to Panajachel on the Lake. From there, we took a lancha (aka small covered boat powered by an overworked but compliant outboard) across the lake to our hotel. La Casa del Mundo is perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, and is only accesible by boat. From the dock, you need to climb a bunch of cement/rock stairs to get to the hotel. Nice rooms at $35/night and an array of decks and various platforms, complete with woodstove-fired outdoor hot tub completed the basic picture. My friend Oscar, whom I had gotten to know on my last trip there, still works at the hotel. He was our unofficial guide during our time there, taking us to, in order: a local friend with a backyard sauna; a local restaurant that doled out $2 shots of Zacapa (considered by many to be the best rum in the world); and to the summit of a volcano overlooking the lake. The last of these took us the better part of a morning, and was worth hiring an official guide for. The 40-something year old gentleman proceeded to kick our collective butt in volcano climbing, despite our Rocky Mountain pedigrees. Even so, we got up in two and one half hours (the norm is three), so we weren't completely undone about it.

Otherwise, lots of reading time, with us each reading three (non-medical) books, something I haven't done for a long time. Hammocks are my friend. The water in the lake was clear blue providing for an assortment of refreshing daily dips/swims. At night the sauna awaited, under a glorious sparkling night sky complete with the "Southern Cross" constellation of the southern hemisphere hanging over the horizon. We got back to Guatemala City ("Guate" to the locals) by the same means as we came. This time, however, we needed to change buses three times en route - something that went surprisingly smoothly considering the chaotic-looking scenes that are the change-over points. The flight back included another airport sleep over, this time at the Orlando airport, but we made it home safe and sound - very tired and moderately sunburned, but filled with the memories of our latest adventure together.